Wednesday, June 07, 2006

Sunday in Harajuku

Yes, upon this day I saw a bunch of leather clad, big be-quiffed, slicked back, cooler than cool, dancing Elvis impersonators. This was no show either. It was a Sunday afternoon in Harajuku. The freaks were out in force. Upon stepping off the train with my companions, the first of them we spotted were a couple of school girls. However, these were no ordinary schoolgirls. A further glance in their direction revealed that they were actually young men. That is not the worst of it either. Five minutes later, through the crowds and onto the 'catwalk' we saw a middle aged man in short flared skirt and bunches, trying to look cute and curtsy for the cameras. It was quite creepy really, he hadn't even shaved! Apart from the genuine nutters it was a good atmosphere. It is just an excuse to go mad for a day and dress up outrageously. The funniest guy I saw was an old man in a blue dress, with a grey handle bar-moustache. His grinning face stuck out of a square cut in the side of a big orange traffic cone, which was wedged over his head. The traffic cone resembled a wedding cake from a distance for it had four or five shelves built around it. On each shelf were stuck dolls and bizzare objects of various kinds. For me, the 'icing on the cake' was the small fish bowl on the lowest shelf, inside which swam five little goldfish.

Across the road a group of goths had congregated. Some wore wedding dresses, others wore leather studded face masks and collars. One girl had a hundred or so coloured hair clips in her hair and about 17 lip piercings. Another texted on her cell phone whilst looking through a black rubber eyepiece held in place with a head band, a mock machine gun hung by her side. The gatherings at Harajuku occur every Sunday. The place is full of gaijin. Most of the crazies just do it for fun I think, to express a little individuality in a society in which self expression is not really encouraged. (Keeping the 'Wa' or 'harmony' and all that.) I heard that the newest high street fashions always start in Harajuku, which is why designers keep a close eye on what is on display here on Sundays. As Gwen said; "It's a kaleidescope of fashions. Their look is so distinctive like DNA. Like nothing I've seen in the USA. The underground culture, visual grammar, the language of their clothing is something to encounter...." But the best thing I saw in Harajuku was the guy with the traffic cone on his head - I mean I can't see that catching on anytime soon!

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