Christmas Saturday

My Christmas weekend started on the 23rd December, thanks to the fact that it was the emperor of Japan's birthday, and coincidentally, my mother's. I took a train into Shinjuku. I was in search of the famous Yodobashi camera store near the west exit of the station. My parents said they would buy me a digital camera for Christmas so I set out to investigate the latest technology. I managed to navigate my way through the impossibly confusing station (which I almost always get lost in) and was approaching the west exit, when I saw a sign for Bic Camera. It was on the 6th floor of the Odakyu department store. Noticing an elevator a few yards from the sign, I figured I would pop up and take a look around at the cameras on sale there.

Big mistake. Just as I pressed the button a Japanese woman in a uniform consisting of a pink, mini-skirt suit and white hat, gloves and neck scarf clattered over. "Where you want to go?" I informed her that I wanted to go to Bic camera on the 6th floor. I saw the illuminated numbers blinking down towards 1, but before I had time to pause for the doors to open, she whisked me away and started pointing towards an exit up ahead. There were crowds of people and signs everywhere and I didn't know what was going on. Anyway, from out of her pocket she whipped a piece of paper and a pen and started drawing a map. She then put it back in her pocket and, bowing, ushered me in the direction of my new destination.

My off hand decision to 'pop in' to Bic camera on my way, turned out be more like a bad dream. I couldn't remember the directions she gave me and not having actually been given the map I found myself immediately lost. I wandered into a food hall and then tried to call an elevator which never came. I got fed up of waiting and went in search of some stairs. Finally I found my way into Odakyu (which is still in the station complex) and went up and down the escalators between the five floors of Bic camera looking for the part that actually stocks the cameras. (Bic camera sells a variety of electronic goods - from cell phones to TVs, to massage chairs and i-pods.)

After ten minutes of trying to find the digital cameras in intense heat and noise, I thought I was about to have an uncontrollable fit of rage, so I made a beeline for the nearest exit. All in all, it took me well over an hour to get out of the station and into the fresh air and sunshine. I saw a Buddhist monk standing outside begging for money in his grey robes, chanting and occasionally banging a stick with bells on on the pavement. Japan, the land of contradictions never ceases to surprise me.

My basic ability to read Katakana allowed me to successfully locate Yodobashi camera. Although, after an hour in there I couldn't actually decide which one I wanted to buy. In the end I headed to Kabukicho and wandered about in the neon and the racket of pachinko and shoppers that is soap land. It was getting dark and given my lack of any real plans I decided to go to the cinema. Nine quid got me a ticket for "The Devil Wears Prada". It was just what I was in the mood for. A light, funny look at the world of fashion. I left feeling very scruffy, yet very much in love with Tokyo. Stepping out into the energy and the colour and life of the big city I felt the world was mine. Here I was in Tokyo but in a couple of months I would be back in Hastings. I have chosen to give it up and I frequently ask myself why. As I slowly walked away from the cinema I started to mourn the loss of this city that would soon only exist for me in memories.

I passed an English pub and decided to pop in for a drink. I half expected it to be full of westerners, but it wasn't. In fact I was the only one. It was packed with Japanese people. I was escorted to a stool at the bar and given a cocktail menu by an overly polite waitress who was probably wondering why I was coming in alone. I then had to get up and walk to the end of the bar to order my Cuba Libre. So much for being an English pub. Given that there was no one there that I was likely to strike up a conversation with, I left. Outside the station I watched some pretty unique street entertainment. One festive performance constituted of two skinny guys in blond wigs and Mrs Santa outfits. One played keyboard whilst the other shrieked out Christmas carols into a microphone and every now and then shouted "happy birthday baby Jesus!" Yes, I will miss Tokyo. It is a truly unique experience.